MY PUB: the Three Hills, Bartlow, Cambridgeshire

It is named after the three hills or Tumuli – ancient burial mounds – that were part of a seven-mound group, which is considered to be the largest in Europe.

Located about five miles south-east of Cambridge, this cracking site in Bartlow offers en-suite bedrooms, a great beer garden, a super menu and plenty of parking.

Here, managing director Emma Harrison tells The Morning Advertiser all about the Three Hills pub, which won Best Country/Rural Pub in the Great British Pub Awards in 2022.

The pub

The Three Hills is a beautifully restored 17^th century pub with rooms, tucked away in the village of Bartlow on the Cambridgeshire–Essex border.

After standing empty for years, it was brought back to life in 2015 with a top-to-bottom rebuild and significant extensions to the property – including a new kitchen, dining room, rooms and extensive garden.

These days, it’s a destination spot with a reputation for excellence – whether you’re stopping by for a quick drink, staying overnight in one of our seven boutique rooms, or enjoying dinner in the fabulous garden complete with a fairy-lit canopy and stunning sun terrace.

The publican

My journey into hospitality was anything but typical. I started out as a management consultant with Bain & Co, completed an MBA in the US and then worked as an investment banker before returning to the UK with my husband and young twin boys to take over my family business – Culpeper the Herbalists.

When my daughter was born, I took time out to be a stay-at-home mum, before launching a clothing business with my sister.

Around that time, a great friend, Chris, mentioned he and his wife were planning to buy their local pub and needed someone to oversee its total rebuild and refurbishment.

Without knowing anything about pubs, restaurants or hotels, I agreed – somewhat naively – to take on the challenge.

The pub was in a very sorry state, surrounded by barbed wire and closed for several years. Two years later, we reopened with a gorgeous new Scandi-style dining room, a snug/library housed in the former dining room of the pub, seven exquisitely decorated en-suite guest rooms and a stunning landscaped garden.

Somehow, I ended up staying on. The past 10 years have been the most challenging of my life but I love every minute of what I do and am beyond proud of everything we’ve accomplished at the Three Hills.

The trade

We’re a food-focused country pub with a loyal local crowd and plenty of visitors from further afield.

Weekdays bring a mix of locals, walkers and remote workers dropping by for lunch or coffee while weekends are filled with couples, families and friends gathering over proper pub food in a relaxed atmosphere.

We’re lucky to attract a great blend of regulars and new faces, which keeps things lively and welcoming. Sundays are especially important for us.

The team

Our team is small but mighty. Front of house is myself and one full-timer, Emily, and a rotating cast of students who keep the atmosphere warm and friendly. My sister Victoria helps me with events, which have become increasingly important to us.

In the kitchen, head chef Rob, sous chef Charlie, Cerrys, Ethan and Carron create top-notch seasonal dishes while our dedicated housekeeping team, Annie and Ella, keep the rooms immaculate.

Most of the team has been with me since the beginning and, for the most part, we love coming to work. It really does feel like family.

The drink

Our bar is well-stocked with local ales, craft beers, classic cocktails and a carefully chosen, ever-evolving wine list with plenty of wines by the glass.

I’m especially proud of our wine offering. I recently completed the notoriously tough Level 3 WSET exam so that I’d feel a little more knowledgeable in front of our customers. With both Verre du Vin and Coravin systems in place, we can offer premium wines in perfect condition by the glass – including some very special bottles.

The food

Food is at the heart of everything we do at the Three Hills. As a small pub tucked away in the countryside, I knew from the beginning that we had to stand out through our food. Our menu is proudly seasonal and British, blending elevated pub classics with creative specials – all prepared with care and locally sourced ingredients wherever possible.

Our Sunday roasts are a local favourite, while inventive seafood dishes, inspired by our head chef’s expertise in fish, are proving incredibly popular.

Recognition has followed too: we were ranked 23rd in the Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs in 2022 – the highest new entry that year – and we’ve been awarded two AA Rosettes every year since reopening. We’re also proud to be listed in both the Michelin Guide and The Good Food Guide.

These accolades are a huge honour but, more importantly, they inspire us to keep raising the bar.

The events

We host a vibrant mix of events throughout the year — from quiz nights and Easter egg hunts to summer barbecues, movie nights with live music, wreath-making workshops and private celebrations.

Our spaces are flexible and full of character, making the Three Hills a unique setting for everything from intimate library gatherings to full pub takeovers for weddings and milestone occasions.

We try to keep our event offering fresh and seasonal. This summer, we introduced Friday live music paired with fresh pizzas from our Italian pizza oven and a themed menu, bringing a festival-style atmosphere to the garden.

In past years, we’ve welcomed Enchanted Cinema under the stars and even open-air Shakespeare and Agatha Christie performances. There’s always something to look forward to.

The future

It’s been an amazing eight years since we reopened but we never rest on our laurels. Innovation, freshness, and a focus on brilliant customer service keep us moving forward. We’re exploring ways to make even more of our garden, dreaming up new seasonal menus, and planning special dining events, alongside ongoing improvements to our rooms.

We’ve come a long way since the rebuild, but the aim remains simple: to keep evolving while staying true to our roots.