Kalaji, who this year was crowned the Estrella Damm’s Top 50 Gastropubs chef of the year, creates desserts that are classic and French in their technique and design, but with flavours deeply rooted in her Arab heritage.
Kalaji’s chocolate, coffee and cardamom namelaka is served with smoked aubergine ice cream and tahini butterscotch.
“I wanted to pair chocolate with the flavour of Arabic coffee, so freshly ground cardamom and good quality coffee are a must,” Kalaji said.
“The smell of freshly brewed coffee with cardamom transports me to balmy nights in Amman. Aubergine in a dessert may sound unconventional, but trust me on this one! The smokey flavour with the subtle umami from the miso lend a deep and distinctly complex flavour to this ice cream.”
Kalaji serves the namaleka with a salty, sweet and sticky tahini butterscotch. “This dish is layered, rich and something I can and will happily consume an obscene amount of,” she adds.
The chef of the year suggests pairing the dessert with New Bristol Brewery’s Cinder Toffee stout, while it also works well with a Vin Santo dessert wine too, “especially ones that have oxidative notes”.
The dessert’s cost to make per portion is around £4.15-25 depending on chocolate prices, and is sold at £12.50.
Chocolate, coffee and cardamom namelaka with smoked aubergine ice cream and tahini butterscotch
For the chocolate namelaka (makes 1.2kg)
- 260ml whole milk
- 580ml double cream
- 25g ground coffee
- 30g Kahlua or Tia Maria
- 1tsp cardamom ground
- 60ml liquid glucose
- 10g gelatine leaves (200 bloom) soaked in 50g cold water
- 400g dark chocolate
- 5g cocoa butter
- Pinch of fine sea salt
Method:
Heat milk cardamom and ground coffee. Infuse for 30 minutes covered, re-heat to 80°C and add glucose.
Strain hot milk over dark chocolate and cocoa butter. Emulsify with a hand blender until smooth.
Add hydrated gelatine (melted into the warm base)
Blend again 20–30 seconds
Add cold double cream and Kahlua or Tia Maria
Blend, keeping the blade submerged to avoid bubbles
Allow to cool before freezing for 4 hours before use
Pour into moulds and allow to freeze before unmoulding an hour before service
For the smoked aubergine ice cream (made in a Pacojet or Ninja Creami)
- 220g egg yolk
- 480g caster sugar
- Pinch salt
- 1500g whole milk
- 480g double cream
For the burnt aubergine
- Aubergine flesh 380g – roughly 2 large aubergines
- 2 tonka beans - microplaned
- 2tbsp white miso
- 1tbsp cardamom ground
Method:
Start by pricking the aubergines and placing over an open flame until charred on the outside and squishy within
Place in a bowl and cover with cling film to allow them to sweat and cool. Remove the skin when they are cool enough to handle and reserve the smokey soft flesh.
Next make the crème anglais. Heat the milk, cream, tonka bean, cardamom and white miso on a low heat till 83 degrees.
In a separate bowl whisk the egg yolks and sugar together till pale. Pour over the warm milk and cream mixture whisking throughout.
Chinoise and return to the heat and cook till 83 degrees and thickened
Remove from the heat and blend in the aubergine flesh using a hand blender and add the pinch of salt
Chinoise once more and allow to chill before blending
Allow to cool fully before freezing
For the salted tahini butterscotch
- 150g caster sugar
- 75ml water
- 75g butter - cubed
- 90g double cream
- 60g tahini
- 1tsp of maldon salt - or more to taste
Method:
Heat sugar and water in a pan to make a caramel. When it has turned a terracotta colour, take off the heat and add the butter, whisking in constantly. Add the double cream straight after.
Whisk until a smooth caramel has formed. and add the tahini. Add maldon to taste.
For the cocoa and cardamom tuile
- 180g flour
- 160g softened butter
- 200g egg white
- 200g sugar
- 5g ground cardamom
- 20g cocoa powder
- Pinch of salt
Method:
Blend all the ingredients well and rest for 15 minutes
Spray desired mould with release spray and use a spatula to spread into moulds
Bake at 175 degrees for 6-8 minutes
To serve
Place the namelaka on top and pipe on some salted caramel tahini butterscotch. You can either use a mould with a well in it or use a hot spoon to shape a well.
Next add a scoop or rocher of the aubergine ice cream and finish with the cocoa tuile.
Add cocoa nibs for texture and bitterness and a sprinkle more flaked salt.
“I like to add a crunchy element to all my desserts so I lay a small round of smoked almond butter kaitifi on the base of a plate, but an almond or hazelnut brittle would work equally well,” Kalaji says. “Sweet, smoky, salty and satisfying in every way.”
- To take part in The MA’s Dish Deconstructed series, please contact phoebe.fraser@wrbm.com
