Hosted by MA news editor Phoebe Fraser, On the Pass features conversations with chefs and operators from across the UK, focusing on the ideas, menus and operating models helping pubs stand out.
Watch episode one:
In the first episode we visit the Devonshire in Soho to speak with co-founder and executive chef Ashley Palmer-Watts about building one of the country’s most talked about pub openings.
With everything on the table, Palmer-Watts talks through the venue’s in-house butcher and bakery, balancing premium food with genuine pub culture, as well as the realities of maintaining standards after being named Number One in this year’s Top 50 Gastropubs list.
Speaking on why the venue resonated so quickly with customers, Palmer-Watts said: “I think the really important part is about building the right culture that then allows the team to bring this to life.
“All of the front of house, the managers through to the runners at every level really bring their own character to it. It’s real, not hands behind your back or anything too formal, and I think people really feel comfortable and well looked after in that sort of environment.”
Simple pub grub
The episode also explores why simplicity in pub food can often be harder to execute than more complex cooking.
“Cooking simply is really difficult,” Palmer-Watts said. “There’s always a tendency to put other stuff on, and we’ve stayed really true to this being what people want it to be when they’re sat here.”
Elsewhere in the conversation, Palmer-Watts reflects on the pub’s atmosphere, sourcing philosophy, Guinness reputation and what other operators often misunderstand about improving food offers.
Asked what advice he would give to pubs looking to improve food trade, he said: “Think about who your customer is and the diversity that you need in today’s market. You can’t just concentrate on one demographic. Think about everybody, make it for everybody. Think outside the box.”
The next On the Pass episodes will feature Estrella Damm Chef of the Year Ayesha Kalaji at Queen of Cups, alongside executive chef Aled Williams from The General Tarleton, the Ferrensby pub that won One to Watch at this year’s Top 50 Gastropubs awards.
- Watch the full episode above, or on YouTube here.
