How to make the Crown at Bildeston’s pan roasted venison haunch

Dish Deconstructed: The Crown at Bildeston’s venison haunch
Dish Deconstructed: The Crown at Bildeston’s venison haunch (The Crown at Bildeston)

In this Dish Deconstructed, the Crown at Bildeston executive chef Greig Young shares how to make the Suffolk pub’s pan roasted venison haunch with rösti chips and peppercorn sauce.

Using venison sourced from the local estate, the dish reflects the pub’s estate to plate ethos and its focus on encouraging diners to eat more sustainable game.

“Eating game is key. You’ll always find venison from the estate on our menu. We truly believe in it and so do all of our chefs,” Young said.

“From venison sausages to venison haunch and peppercorn sauce on our à la carte, we want to educate, inspire and promote the benefits of eating sustainable, delicious game meat. It’s all part of our estate to plate ethos that we are incredibly passionate about.”

The dish costs £8.50 per portion to produce and is sold for £32.

Young recommends pairing it with Piattelli Vineyards’ Alto Molino Malbec.

Pan roasted venison haunch with rösti chips and peppercorn sauce

For the venison

Ingredients:

  • 1 haunch of a small roe or large muntjac
  • 30g neutral oil
  • 50g butter
  • 2 cloves confit garlic, crushed
  • 4 fried sage leaves
  • Smoked Maldon salt
  • Freshly milled black pepper

Method:

Prepare the venison haunch by carefully separating the seams between the muscles to leave individual muscle joints. Match together pieces of a similar size.

The smaller pencil fillet will require considerably less cooking than the thicker muscle at the top of the leg.

Season the meat with smoked salt and black pepper.

Preheat a thick bottomed stainless steel pan and sear the venison until deeply golden.

Cook the thicker pieces to 48°C and rest on a cooling rack. The smaller pieces require only a heavy sear. Rest for four minutes.

Pour off the excess fat from the pan and increase the heat.

Return the venison to the pan and add the butter. Allow it to foam, then crush the sage in your hands and add it to the pan with the garlic.

Add two tablespoons of the peppercorn sauce and glaze the meat. This process should be done quickly to avoid overcooking the venison.

Remove the glazed meat from the pan and carve.

For the peppercorn sauce

Ingredients:

  • 30g shallots, finely diced
  • 25g Courvoisier
  • 200g veal stock
  • 100g cream
  • 5g green peppercorns
  • 7.5g black peppercorns, crushed
  • 5g neutral oil
  • 4 nasturtium leaves
  • Green peppercorn brine
  • Salt, to taste
  • Lemon juice, to taste

Method:

Toast the black peppercorns in a heavy based pan until fragrant.

Add the neutral oil and shallots and sweat until tender without allowing them to colour.

Add the Courvoisier and flame off the alcohol, then reduce until dry.

Add the veal stock and reduce by half.

Pass into a clean pan, add the cream and reduce by half again.

Chop the green peppercorns and add to the sauce with one tablespoon of their brine.

Finely slice the nasturtium leaves and add just before serving.

Adjust the seasoning with salt and lemon juice to taste.

For the rösti chips

Ingredients:

  • 4kg Maris Piper potatoes, peeled and grated
  • 30g salt
  • 250g unsalted butter

Method:

Line a gastronorm tray with parchment paper.

Wash the grated potatoes and squeeze out the excess water.

Place in a large bowl and thoroughly combine with the salt and butter.

Press the mixture into the lined tray. Cover with parchment paper followed by tin foil.

Bake at 170°C full fan for 70 minutes.

Remove the foil and press the rösti until fully chilled.

Portion into chips and fry at 180°C until golden.

To serve

Reheat the remaining peppercorn sauce and finish with the nasturtium.

Fry the rösti chips until golden, then drain any excess oil on paper.

Carve the different cuts of venison haunch.

Young recommends spooning the sauce onto the plate first before arranging the venison and rösti chips on top.

Finish with land cress, black mustard frills, freshly cracked black pepper and high quality grassy extra virgin olive oil.