MY PUB: The Killingworth Castle, Wootton, Oxfordshire

Charting at No.37 on the current Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs list, this Oxfordshire gem is one not to be missed.

Here, Claire Alexander tells The Morning Advertiser all about this charming pub.

The pub

The Killingworth Castle dates back to 1637 and is situated on the edge of the village of Wootton, near Woodstock and Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire.

Once a staging post where horses were swapped on the London to Worcester Road, it’s now fully ensconced in the north Cotswolds with Estelle Manor and Aynho Park as neighbours but ‘the Killy’ as the locals call it, is still very much a pub, albeit a foodie one with rooms, frequented by locals and some well-known faces including Jeremy Clarkson, Amanda Holden and many music artists visiting nearby Soho Farmhouse.

The location is amazing, we’re on the rat run from London out to the Cotswolds in Oxfordshire, surrounded by huge private estates, beautiful villages and only 10 miles from historic Oxford itself.

There’s not a tone we haven’t touched in terms of refurb. New roof, addition of eight rooms in the stable block, new dining rooms, landscaping, etc.

The publican

When we bought the pub back in 2012, it was derelict after decades of neglect by Greene King Brewery, which owned the site since the ’90s.

We’d often passed the pub, driving out from London over the years when we were looking for our first pub site and seen its steady decline. We settled on the Ebrington Arms back in 2007 (since sold) but decided to buy the Killy as our second pub site in 2012 and set about bringing it back to life.

Having turned the Ebrington Arms into The Times’s No 1 UK Pub and The Telegraph’s No 1 Food pub we set about doing the same. The Killy has been in the Michelin Guide for more than a decade and has three AA Rosettes for food too.

The trade

We’re on the edge of a village, which sadly set up its own sports bar that has affected us, not to mention all the other constraints our industry has faced since Covid but ultimately we’re a destination pub where people can choose between a tasting menu or a la carte.

We’re great for date nights, celebrations and are a truly family-run pub with a good atmosphere. We have drinkers too and even a snooker table in the front snug so it’s a popular spot for all. The beauty of old pubs with different rooms is you can create nooks for different audiences. There have been lots of Christmas enquiries already.

The team

In the front of house, we have two full-time managers: our restaurant manager Nick Green and our bar manager Raj Bhatia. Both bring a wealth of industry experience and work closely together to support all areas of the business.

They are assisted by a dedicated team of local part-time staff, including our wonderful breakfast host Zoya, alongside long-standing team members Esther, Kate, Olivia and Hugo, all of whom have become knowledgeable, valued and integral members of our team.

In the kitchen, we have head chef Rob Mason and sous chef Patrick White, supported by Tom Bonin and Charles Engwell. Together, they ensure seamless coverage for days off and holidays while delivering breakfast, lunch and dinner service five days a week. Together, they’re quite the force.

The drink

While we still take pride in serving well-kept local ales, guest tastes have evolved and our focus has broadened considerably in recent years. Alongside a carefully curated beers, including gluten-free, we have a wine programme that has become a defining part of the business.

Organic, biodynamic and natural wines are a particular passion of ours and now account for the largest proportion of our wet sales. We enjoy championing independent growers and producers whose wines reflect both their terroir and their personalities, offering far more than a conventional wine list.

We have also recently introduced a monthly cocktail night, showcasing seasonal ingredients, classic techniques and a little creativity from behind the bar. They’re really fun and sociable nights.

Looking ahead, we are increasingly interested in experiential hospitality. Working alongside our friends in a theatre company, we have begun hosting immersive dining events that combine live performance with great food and drink. They’re so different and memorable.

As an independent, we can pursue projects that excite us and adapt on a whim.

The food

It’s always been about the food and atmosphere for us. Atmosphere comes from ensuring drinkers are also welcome and the staff are fab.

Our food combines the best of contemporary British dining with respect for provenance. Working closely with trusted suppliers, our chefs create ever evolving menus, reflecting the changing seasons and the finest ingredients available.

Whether joining us for a leisurely Sunday lunch, an intimate dinner or our signature tasting menu, guests can expect proper old school hospitality, confident cooking and dishes that are both familiar and exciting.

The events

This year, we have welcomed a number of guests through specialist travel companies looking for a higher quality food offering. They enjoy visiting historic pubs, learning about the local area and experiencing the character and individuality that independent businesses can offer.

As custodian of the pub, Jim is always happy to share stories about the building, its history, and its place within the local community. Combined with his extensive knowledge of food, wine, beer and local suppliers, guests often find their visit becomes as much about the experience and conversation as it is about the meal itself. It’s something we can do well as a small independent.

The future

The past few years have brought significant challenges for the hospitality industry. Rising rateable values, energy costs, employment costs and increasing operational overheads mean that every extra hour of trading comes with a considerable financial commitment. For many independent operators, the focus has shifted from expansion to sustainability.

We’re no different and as a result, we’re not currently making ambitious growth plans. Instead, our priority is to continue doing what we do well, great food and hospitality.

The business continues to evolve naturally. While we serve less real ale than we once did, our passion for organic and natural wines has grown significantly, and these now represent the largest proportion of our wet sales.

We’ve also introduced popular monthly cocktail evenings and are exploring experiential dining events in partnership with a local theatre company, creating unique occasions that bring together food, drink and entertainment.

Despite the challenges facing the sector, we remain optimistic about the future of pubs in our society. Young people are coming back and the backlash against AI and move towards a more analogue lifestyle is encouraging.