Pub Review - The Puffing Billy - Exton, Devon
The Puffing Billy Exton, Devon
Although it describes itself as a pub/bistro, the Puffing Billy is still very much a gastro pub, and an above-average one at that.
A short walk from Exton railway station, and with a view across an estuary, this white-washed former railway tavern has been given a slick makeover by owner Martin Humphries.
A former consultant and teacher, Humphries is on a mission to get across his message of "quality, fresh ingredients" and the pub uses Devon produce as much as possible.
In fact, it's hard to miss the point because the walls are adorned with huge, arty, Waitrose-style pictures of the pub's suppliers, local producers, chefs and front-of-house staff.
Inside, the pub has a bright-and-breezy coastal feel, with white walls, wooden floors, leather sofas and two dining areas. The wooden tables are uncovered, and sunlight streams in through the windows on to the chunky cutlery. The larger restaurant area is spotlit by a twinkling ceiling, but I chose a table closer to the bar area, which allowed me to watch the brigade of five chefs through the large serving hatch.
The shiny and new state-of-the-art kitchen is led by head chef Spencer Jones who previously worked at Gidleigh Park with Michael Caines - a fact that speaks volumes about the quality of the food sent out.
The menu at the Puffing Billy is divided into "first courses", "main courses", "sides" and "desserts", and ranges in price from £4 for roasted winter vegetable soup with homemade bread to £19 for Aberdeen Angus fillet steak with
garden herb salad and fries. Side dishes are £2 and desserts are all £6.
My starter of chilli-dusted squid with garlic chive mayonnaise and mixed salad (£8) was faultless. The squid had a restrained dusting of chilli and it had been correctly cooked. The leaves were well dressed, the mayonnaise tasted homemade and the unadvertised addition of some Anya potatoes was very welcome.
My main course was exceptional. Slices of crispy-skinned and flavoursome local Crediton duckling were placed on top of a small tower consisting of potato fondant sandwiched between two rings of baked apple. It was served with a rich, unctuous fig jus, a roasted fig and some baby vegetables. A seriously good dish.
A dessert of individual bread and butter pudding with a marmalade Anglaise was served in a white dish with a separate jug for the custard. It was an old classic perfectly executed.
With unobtrusive, alert service and food as good as this, the Puffing Billy certainly deserves its entry into the latest Michelin Eating Out In Pubs guide.
Mark Taylor
PubChef rating (out of 10)
Ambience 7, Value for money 8, Flavour factor 8, Overall impression 8
BEERS: O'Hanlon's Fire Fly
MAIN COURSES: From £6 to £18
WINES ON LIST: 26 whites, 20 reds, one rosé and five sparkling wines and Champagnes. All wines available by the glass
ANOTHER THING: The pub runs a special offer for customers over the age of 50. The 50+ Privilege Card entitles holders to a 10% discount at lunchtime, as well as other special deals. There are now more than 750 cardholders.
