Book Review - Best of British Fish - Hattie Ellis
Best of British Fish - Hattie Ellis (Mitchell Beazley, £20)
Food writer Hattie Ellis has brought together recipes from some of Britain's top chefs for Best of British Fish, with a royalty being paid to the Royal National Mission to Deep Sea Fishermen (see box, right).
In addition to Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Richard Corrigan, Nick Nairn, Gary Rhodes, Marco Pierre White,
Franco Taruschio, Mitchell Tonks, Brian Turner and Aldo
Zilli, there are contributions from leading pub chefs, too.
The book is arranged by regions, with the south east represented by Steve Harris. His recipe for turbot fillet braised in vin jaune and morels was inspired by Nico Ladenis and Marco Pierre White.
The sauce, according to Harris, "sends people into a spin", which must be why it appears on his menu at the Sportsman in Seasalter, Kent.
Matt Tebbutt of the Foxhunter in Nant-y-derry, Monmouthshire, chooses to celebrate Usk wild salmon in his recipe - the fish being poached and served with soused vegetables and a saffron hollandaise.
As well as containing some excellent fish and seafood recipes, the book also features some fascinating essays about fishermen and their stories, evocatively written and edited by Hattie Ellis.
Beautifully photographed in reportage-style by Simon Impey, this book successfully captures the harsh realities of fishing, as well as celebrating the precious and delicious
commodities to be found at sea.
Paying the ultimate price
As you slip that neatly trimmed fillet into the hot pan, it's all too easy to forget the people who risk their lives to ensure we have a regular supply of fresh fish. Fishing remains the UK's most dangerous industry, with almost 30 fishing boats sinking each year and an average of nine men killed every month. These are sobering figures, and they certainly put things into perspective, not least the reasons why high-quality fresh fish can, and should, be an expensive ingredient.
Customers might complain they are paying through the nose for fresh fish, but if they realised the conditions fishermen have to work in they would have second thoughts before moaning. If they stopped to consider that several families lose their loved ones each month because of fishing accidents, they may also think twice when complaining that their line-caught sea bass is pricier than the frozen, farmed one they ate elsewhere.
The Royal National Mission to Deep Sea Fishermen looks after British fishermen and the families of those who have died or been injured at sea. The mission's funds will be boosted by a royalty to be paid from the sales of Best of British Fish.
