The chimes they are a changin'

The Hutchings may have been advised against buying a pub in a remote corner of Wales, but they've confounded their critics. MARK TAYLOR reports

When William and Janet Hutchings approached their bank manager about buying the Bell at Skenfrith, he advised them against it and suggested they stick to their day jobs.

Four years on and the Welsh pub has an annual turnover of almost £1m and holds the prestigious title of Les Routiers Inn of the Year 2004.

"We don't see our bank manager now, he sees us," laughs William. "He said he can't believe how much money we're turning over for a pub in the middle of nowhere."

The Hutchings bought the freehold of this 17th-century coaching inn in Monmouthshire in December 1999. Situated next to the River Monnow, and close to Skenfrith Castle, it's a stunning rural location that attracts tourists and walkers.

The pub had been owned by the same family for 60 years and, despite having a reasonable passing trade, it hadn't had any money spent on it and needed a total refurbishment.

"When we bought it we thought the building work would take about four months ­ it actually turned out to be 18 months.

"We opened in March 2001, in the week that foot and mouth started in the area. The very first outbreak was literally down the road from us.

"But in some ways we were lucky because we didn't have any bookings, and as we hadn't done anything like this before in our lives, it was just nice to start gently and get everything bedded in."

The refurbishment cost "a huge amount of money", but the first-time publicans were fortunate in having a financial backer who was more interested in investing in a quality product than a quick return.

"I think that was pretty unique," says Hutchings. "If it had been a brewery, we would have needed to open pretty quickly to get the money back. We were incredibly lucky."

Although luck may have played a part in the early days of the Bell, sheer hard work and determination has transformed a jaded rural inn into an award-winning pub with rooms. The eight stylish bedrooms at the Bell, which are on offer for between £95 and £170 per night, account for 19% of turnover. In 2004, the occupancy rate was 65% and weekend rooms are booked up three months in advance.

"Accommodation is a higher margin than food and drink and it gives people a reason to come to us. If you have good food, people may want that extra bottle of wine and stay the night."

With experienced Welsh chef Kurt Fleming in the kitchen, the food at the Bell is an added attraction and accounts for 55% of business.

The pub's owners and their chef are passionate about sourcing local produce and there is now a complete list of suppliers on the menu.

"It's hugely important to us," says Hutchings. "You need to promote the whole area and we want to promote our suppliers because they're good. The Jersey cream and the Gloucester Old Spot we're getting are second to none and it's produced just up the road."

The Bell is now doing 700 covers a week, with the kitchen working on a GP in "the high 60s".

The lunch menu ranges from open pitta breads filled with feta cheese, cherry tomatoes and rocket pesto (£6.25) to best-selling Welsh Black steaks with hand-cut chips and béarnaise sauce (£14.95).

The dinner menu is more extensive, with starters priced from £4.50 to £8.95, main courses from £12.95 to £18.50 and desserts £5.50.

There are no set-menus (except Sundays when three courses cost £18.50), which Hutchings says is a deliberate policy.

"We've found that people don't necessarily want two or three courses. We get a lot of walkers and tourists visiting the castle and you really have to fulfil the market.

"If they want an open sandwich or a ploughman's, then that's fine, but then there are people who come out to lunch so we have to cater for them as well."

There are three real ales available at all times, plus draught local ciders, but it's wine that really sets the Bell apart from other food-driven pubs. There are more than 100 wines on the list, from £12 bottles of house red to the rare 1986 Chateau Mouton Rothschild (£330), and 14 wines by the glass.

There are 30 Champagnes and other sparkling wines (from £16 to £125) to choose from, but the most striking thing about the 19-page wine list is the fact that there are more than 100 good-quality half-bottles, priced from £6 to £125.

"I'm obsessed with half bottles," confesses Hutchings. "Because of drink-driving or because a husband and wife may want different wines, I think half bottles are a good selling tool.

"In the evenings, we're often selling a bottle for the main course and a half bottle for the starter so I see that as trading up. We also sell a hell of a lot by the glass and we started selling rosé Champagne as an aperitif and get through a huge amount of that. It's a bit different and people like that.

"We're very passionate about what we do and we take a real pride in it, and everything has to be right, everything has to be good quality and I think that's where the market place is now.

"People aren't prepared for second best and they're prepared to pay a little bit more if they know the food has been locally sourced and freshly cooked, and the wines and beers are of the best quality."

Questions and answers

What was the best money-saving idea over the past year?

Investing in a cold room to hang and butcher more of our meat, for which we had some financial assistance from the Wales Tourist Board. We get the benefit of better prices for a large array of different cuts. It inspires the kitchen to be more creative with these different cuts.

What advice would you give pubs looking to grow their food business?

Focus on quality, fresh ingredients, keep it simple and don't overstretch the kitchen's abilities. Let the ingredients do the talking.

Current five best-selling main courses at the Bell

Welsh Black sirloin with handcut chips and horseradish hollandaise

Poached and grilled best end of Usk lamb with fondant potatoes, celeriac and truffle purée, rosemary and red wine sauce

Roast breast of duck, spiced red onion marmalade, parsnip and honey purée, sauce of aniseed

Roast loin of local venison, dauphinoise potatoes, cider-braised red cabbage, bitter chocolateand lime sauce

Pan-seared fillet of monkfish, risotto of saffron and lemon, buttered baby fennel, rocket purée