Taking stock - Plotting a new course

Mathieu Eke seemed destined for a career as a chef in the high-pressure restaurant world until a health setback gave him a chance to gain some perspective. Mark Taylor poses the questions.

 Mathieu Eke was born in 1974 in Yeovil, Somerset to a French mum and a Norwegian dad. He trained to be a chef at Bournemouth and Poole College between 1991 and 1992. Part of his training was a nine-month work experience placement at the Restaurant at One Ninety, on Queen's Gate in London with Antony Worrall Thompson. He worked in the pastry section at the London restaurant, alongside a young unknown chef called James Martin, who went on to become one of Britain's bestloved celebrity TV chefs. After college, Mathieu moved to Taunton, Somerset, to work at Kit Chapman's Brazz restaurant. Here he met Phil Vickery, who was working at the Castle Hotel, also owned by Chapman.

 Mathieu moved on to Holne Chase Hotel in Ashburton. During his time there, Mathieu developed cancer. Now four years on, he is, thankfully, fully recovered. "It was a turning point," says Mathieu. "I decided then that I wanted an easier life and I saw working in smaller pubs as the best thing for me at the time." Mathieu started working at Ian McKerracher's Helyar Arms pub in East Coker, Somerset, in December 2003. He had worked with McKerracher in the 1990s at One Ninety Queen's Gate. Mathieu is head chef at the Helyar Arms with a brigade of five chefs, including Tyrone Knight and Carl Marcantonio, both of whom were winners in the PubChef Awards 2005.

 The pub averages 200 covers a week, with food sales accounting for 66% of turnover.

 What's the best part of being a pub chef?​The hours aren't as intense as they are in big hotels and restaurants. I'm quite lucky at the Helyar Arms because there are five chefs and a kitchen porter, which for a pub is pretty rare. We make everything on the premises, even the bread and chips.

 What makes a good pub menu?​It has to be fresh local produce. We always offer bar snacks, sandwiches and baguettes, as well as the à la carte menu and blackboard specials. As for dishes, our bestsellers are Tyrone's award-winning liver and bacon dish, honey-glazed ham with egg and chips, grilled plaice and also faggots.

 What's the downside of being a pub chef?​People don't tend to book so you never know how many people are coming in at any time. If you have a big table coming in, you can hardly turn them away, but that can be a strain on the kitchen. Some people do book, but we still get walk-ins.

 What makes a great chef?​ Hard work and determination. The best chefs are the young guys who are enthusiastic, aren't late, always come in on time, keep their heads down and listen to everything you say.

 What unusual ingredient do you like using?​ Saffron. We use a saffron reduction for our mash and that goes well with some of the fish dishes.

 Which dishes should be banned?​Scampi and anything served in a basket.

 What do you think of the quality of young chefs coming out of college?​In past years, the standard has been pretty rubbish, but I think TV programmes like [Gordon] Ramsay's have been quite good because people watch them and decide to give it a go. Things have certainly improved over the past couple of years and I've been very lucky with the chefs I've had here.

 What about the proposed smoking ban?​Speaking as a cancer sufferer, I think it should have been banned a long time ago. I hate it. Because I don't smoke, I'm often left in the kitchen on my own when others go off for a fag break.

 Who have been your biggest influences?​ Phil Vickery. His knowledge is phenomenal. Also, my friend Mike Davis, head chef at Bindon Country House and Restaurant in Wellington, Somerset. We're always discussing dishes. On a personal level, my girlfriend, Jessica Moore, has been an absolute rock. She's been with me for 11 years, through the time I was ill. To go through that and put up with my job too, she's been brilliant and has always been there for me.

 What's your desert island dish?​Ravioli on toast with a poached egg and some coleslaw on top.

 Finally, can England win the World Cup?​If they don't do it now, when will they? Having said that, I'd be quite happy if Yeovil Town FC got promoted, although England have a better chance of winning the World Cup!