Ahead of the pack

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An isolated country setting in Berkshire has not stopped the Hare at the Hare & Hounds from winning a Michelin star. HUMAYUN HUSSAIN talks to head chef Tristan Lee Mason

Success has been swift for Paul Whitford and partner Helen Windridge, owners of the Hare & Hounds. The gastropub gained a Michelin Star earlier this year after less than a year in business.

The standards were set from day one, but Paul is realistic enough to know that Michelin inspectors need to see evidence of consistency over a period of time before they dole out any of their coveted stars.

Either way, Paul and Helen, who spent £60,000 on the refurbishment of the old Grade II listed pub premises, set among the rolling hills of Lambourn in rural Berkshire, are aware that the credit of winning such an accolade is down to the talents of their young chef, Tristan Lee Mason.

When I ask Tristan about the secret of the Hare's success, he makes one thing crystal clear. From

day one, he claims, Paul and Helen's new establishment would be known as a restaurant, rather than a pub or a gastropub. He adds that no pub would offer ambitious food of the quality served at the Hare.

However, that hasn't prevented pundits and media from listing it as one of Britain's finest gastropubs.

"Put it this way," stresses Tristan, "the bar trade and fine dining are hardly a partnership made in heaven. My intention was always to offer haute cuisine at the Hare.

And he says: "This area is known locally as the 'valley of the racehorse'. There are probably more horses than people in Lambourn! This is a wealthy area, and many of our customers are racehorse owners and trainers. It's pointless to offer our clientele ordinary dishes that they can make at home - I aim to cook meals with a 'wow' factor."

Career reflects his passion

Tristan's career trajectory reflects his passion

and sheer determination. As a young student in Hertfordshire, he started as a commis chef at a local four-star hotel.

When he left college, Tristan graduated to the role of chef de partie, firstly at a country farmhouse hotel and later under Marco Pierre White at London's Mirabelle restaurant. To become sous chef at the Greenhouse he only had to move a few streets away.

After working for six years in London, Tristan was appointed as head chef at the newly-opened Hare. Fourteen chefs had been interviewed for the post, but Tristan's calm personality helped him land the top job. "He wasn't egotistical or temperamental," says Paul. "Tristan seemed comfortable within himself."

"My attitude at the Hare," Tristan explains, "is to take a modern approach to classical French cooking and envelope it in my own ideas. A recipe can be sparked off by just one ingredient - I just build on that, finding out which ingredients I need to add.

"Sometimes the idea gestates for weeks in my head, and at other times it's clear right away and the recipe comes together quickly.

"Marco gave me a fantastic platform for executing classical cooking with proper techniques and reliable sauces at the Mirabelle; the head chef at the Greenhouse, Paul Merritt, influenced me in a more avant-garde way.

"Working for Paul and Marco was very educational - I couldn't have asked for a better learning experience."

As his signature dishes at the Hare, Tristan cites starter of crème du barry with brandade ravioli and vanilla oil, main of venison with thyme crumb, smoked aubergine purée, young beetroot and jellied beetroot consommé, while dessert features banana tarte Tatin with banana brûlée, caramelised walnut and parsley ice cream, and lemon sauce.

No ordinary pub

Tristan uses seasonal British ingredients, including fresh fish delivered daily from Cornwall, and all food served at the Hare is locally sourced whenever possible. His lunch menus change every two weeks and he devises more complex, adventurous dinner menus on a monthly basis.

A tasting menu of signature dishes is available at £60 per head and his three-course Sunday lunch menu costing £25 per head favours comfort food, featuring dishes such as slow-roasted rib of

beef with Yorkshire pudding, fondant potato and green beans.

The extensive and well-chosen wine list is punctuated by headers such as "light, fresher unoaked whites", or "more intensely-flavoured reds".

Do customers ever just drop in thinking they'll be offered run-of-the-mill pub grub? "No, not at all," says Tristan, "We're very much a destination place, so people usually book. Spontaneous customers can tell from our sophisticated décor that the Hare is no ordinary pub, and they're often quite bowled over by the quality and texture of our cooking.

"I hope to continue surprising people by coming up with more innovative dishes. That's the only way I'll achieve a second Michelin star."

The Hare & Hounds: facts 'n' stats

Covers per week: 250

Turnover: £380,000

Average food spend per head: £25 lunch, £50 dinner

Wet:dry split: 30:70

Beers: Bombardier on tap. Bottled: Becks, Grolsch, Budwar, Guinness and Peroni

Wines: 80 - 50 reds (3 by the glass), 30 whites (3 by the glass) 1 rosé and 5 champagnes

Owners: Paul Whitford and Helen Windridge

Best business idea in the last year: "Focusing on local marketing within a 20-mile radius. Building a database of regular customers and inviting them to monthly events. Also, visiting local organisations with our brochure and informing them of our business."

On the menu

Starters

Confit duck, roast teal, red cabbage

purée & pickled chestnuts £9

John Dory, fennel salad, cucumber

gazpacho & celeriac mousse £11

Quail with sage, apple cake & épice

creamed potato £10

Mains

Roast rump of veal, kohlrabi fondants,

Seville orange marmalade &

creamy polenta £20