Marvellous

fellow The Morning Advertiser has teamed up with Imperial Tobacco to find the UK's most characterful licensee. Nigel Huddleston meets Dennis Duckhouse, whose catchphrase has given him a new name For Dennis Duckhouse life as a licensee has been marvellous. In fact, it's been so marvellous the word has become his catchphrase. "I've got a few sayings that people pick up on," says Dennis. "I always say marvellous', which has become a trait. People call me Marvellous'; they say hello, Marvellous', how are you, Marvellous?'." Dennis went into the licensed trade straight from school and ran the Nag's Head in Burntwood, Staffordshire, for 17 years, before leaving to run Ye Olde Windmill Inn seven years ago on behalf of owner Elaine Parry. The pub stands high on a hill at the edge of Cannock Wood, with views over the valley to Lichfield Cathedral. The old windmill still stands in the grounds, now a ruin populated by a family of white doves. There's a crown bowling green used by a local club ­ "We've warned them if they don't start spending more we'll turn it into a car park," jokes Dennis ­ two children's play areas, good beer and excellent pub grub. Arguably, though, the best thing about Ye Olde Windmill Inn is the welcome from the manager, always smiling and resplendent in a dinner jacket, tie and waistcoat. "I get on well with people," says Dennis, "and I try to be fair with people if there's any problems. I'm usually behind the bar rather than working in the background; I think it makes a difference. "I think being involved is important, knowing what's going on. People feel better if they know the licensee or manager by name. You can go to pubs these days and everyone's got the same offers, so it makes a big difference if it's a friendly pub." There's banter, of course, but that's reserved for those who are most familiar. "I use sarcasm, but in a nice sort of way ­ the usual sort of stuff: you're ugly but I can go on a diet'. You can get away with it if you know people." But it's also important not to let the manager's personality get in the way of running a decent pub, says Dennis. Ye Olde Windmill is beautifully decked out with floral displays created by long-serving cellarman Brian Hildreth. Inside, it's spotlessly clean, with acres of space, so that never being able to find a table is just not an option. Families are welcome and paintings and photos of the pub through the ages adorn the walls, giving it a real sense of historical importance as the centre of the local community. It is, in fact, a very good pub run by a very good host ­ nothing more complicated than that, but a formula that takes a combination of experience, personality and instinct to get right. "Value for money is key," says Dennis. "You can be the friendliest person in the world but if the rest is no good and you're serving crap food, people aren't going to come." While the footfall speaks volumes for what the customers think, the long service of many of the staff also tells a story. Dennis's crew have barely a bad word to say about the man whose most-prized possession, a hard-earned Jag with the number plate K888DEN sits outside. "They'd probably say I moan a lot about things, but if it's got to be done, it's got to be done. We have a bit of banter and I'm fair with them." When he says "the biggest nightmare is staffing," he means the state of play in the employment market rather than any individual personalities. "In the old days, if people wanted part-time work there were only the pubs to turn to in the evening. Now, the supermarkets are open all night, every night and they tend to pay more. That leaves the students, God bless 'em. They've got it all up here, in brain cells and computer know-how, but when it comes to common sense they struggle ­ silly things like taking food out but not giving people cutlery to eat with." It's about the only gripe Dennis has in an hour's worth of conversation. You suspect everything else is more or less marvellous. After a fashion Dennis Duckhouse is well-known for his waistcoats, in his part of Staffordshire. "It started one Christmas," he says. "Someone bought me a waistcoat and everyone commented on it. So I got a few more and it became that if I didn't have one on, people wanted to know why not. It's become my uniform. It makes a change now to see someone smart behind the bar, because most people just wear polo shirts these days." He has no particular favourites in his collection of 20 or so. "Some are flamboyant, others are more plain. When we did functions I had special ones for weddings but none stands out now." Bar person Tara Hollingsworth adds: "When it's really hot and he's just wearing a shirt and a normal tie you don't recognise him." How others see Dennis Duckhouse "He's awful. No, he's lovely really. A bit temperamental; like a woman really, a bit hormonal. He's lovely really, very fair. He loves chocolate and he adores his car. There's a picture of him and the car by the side of his bed. He's so much a part of the pub that a lot of customers think he owns it. You couldn't ask for a better boss. His favourite word is marvellous'. Oh, and he loves holidays. He's the Judith Chalmers of the Midlands." Tara Hollingsworth, bar person "He's very experienced. He's worked in a lot of places and a lot of people have followed him here to the Windmill. He really is a nice person, very likeable and very good at his job, too. He's also very smartly-dressed all the time and looks the part." Brian Hildreth, cellarman "He's a loser ­ no, I'm only joking. We all love him here, he's a father figure." Anonymous passing member of staff Are you a Classic Host? If so, enter our competition now Imperial Tobacco is delighted to sponsor the search for the Classic Host. This competition has been launched to find a publican with a larger-than-life personality, who runs a successful business and recognises the value of providing good customer service. Judges from the Morning Advertiser team will select the overall winner who will receive a prize of £500. If you think you have what it takes to be a Classic Host, send your address and contact number, with a description of no more than 500 words, explaining why you're the life and soul of your pub, to: Rosie Davenport, Features & Brands Editor, the Morning Advertiser, William Reed Publishing Ltd, Broadfield Park, Crawley, West Sussex, RH11 9RT.