Loyal to soil

Pub owner Geetie Singh talks Lucy Britner through her 10-year totally-organic experience

From carrots to candles and turnips to tampons, everything at the Duke of Cambridge in London's Islington is organic — and, on its 10th anniversary, the pub has been named the Soil Association's Best Organic Restaurant 2008.

Since the pub opened in 1998, owner Geetie Singh has seen a massive change in the availability of organic produce.

"Ten years ago there were no organic draught ales or lagers available. Three years after we launched, we held a beer festival and there were 42 entrants. Now, we can even get organic tampons for the ladies."

Running a certified organic pub means only buying food from Soil Association-certified producers.

"This isn't as restricting as it sounds. There are plenty of ingredients around. It appeals a lot to the chefs to restrict themselves to seasonal ingredients. There are literally yelps of joy when new-season asparagus appears, or peas or the first cucumbers."

Geetie has to run a tight ship — meaning weekly stock takes and audits and quarterly staff training sessions. "It's important the managers can answer questions about what we do. We also place cards on tables explaining what we do — all on recycled paper, of course!"

Being a busy gastropub in a wealthy London borough doesn't stop the team finding time to help the local community.

"Over the last 10 years we have become a massive part of the local community. We're working with local primary schools to help train chefs and become independent," says Geetie. The pub has also played host to the Soil Association judging for organic produce awards.

Organic food doesn't mean expensive food, according to Geetie. She says: "It's a common misconception, but our prices are no different from other London gastropubs. I think supermarkets put an unnecessary premium on organic produce."

One of the biggest disadvantages of being an organic pub, according to Geetie, is that it is hard to source food locally.

"We do keep an eye on food miles and since 2005, 95% of our fruit and veg is from Britain."

When it comes to sourcing products, Geetie recommends trade shows to anyone thinking of going organic. She says: "Licensees can get a lot of ideas from trade shows like the Speciality Fine Food Fair. It can be quite hard to find artisan producers."

Geetie says you could find a menu-changing product or simply just get some menu ideas.

"You might discover different types of salad for example, or just pick up a few marketing ideas."

Geetie also used to own the Crown in Victoria Park, London. In 2005 she sold the pub.

"I wouldn't rule out buying another site — and I would definitely go down the sustainable route."

Watch this space.

Green initiatives

n Sustainable fish purchasing policy, accredited by the MSC

n Promoting local, organic artisan beers

n Not buying cut flowers

n Soil Association and Forest Stewardship Council accredited garden furniture

n Fairtrade sugar, tea, coffee and chocolate

n No air freight

Facts 'n' stats

Tenure: Freehold

Covers per day: 150-190, 200 on Sundays

Average spend per head: £25 including drink

The menu: Changes twice daily. Dishes include: smoked organic salmon and pickled fennel (£7.25); fried halloumi with beetroot and pousse salad (£7); seared whole bream with cured courgette, cucumber, coriander, mint and red onion (£14.50); crispy pork belly with apple (£15); sweet cherry pie and vanilla ice cream (£6.50); strawberry Eton mess with balsamic syrup (£6); chocolate soufflé cake (£6)