Fox on curry - Cash'n'curry
It's the classic East-meets-West dish that's a great match with beer. And for the perfect curry all you need is goat meat, says Richard Fox.
It may be fact, fiction or another great urban myth, but Chicken Tikka Masala is the most popular dish in the UK. Whatever the provenance of the story, what is clear is that Indian orientation is firmly on our gastronomic agendas. The fact that the ubiquitous Chicken Tikka Masala is about as Indian as my Aunt Fanny is neither here nor there - the "Engdian" lines got blurred a very long time ago. Exotic herbs and spices were common place in British households 800 years ago, while English vegetable staples like cauliflower have been getting "currified" everywhere from the Punjab to Delhi since the colonisation of India.
Given the curry's universal popularity coupled with its natural affinity with beer, what better place to benefit from the power of the Tandoori than the British public house. Quite simply, beer makes curry great. Ever since the brewers found a way to brew an ale which could be transported long distances without refrigeration to gagging Brits during the time of the Raj, we found that hops and curry leaves go together like the greatest of lovers. From light golden Pilsner to intensively hopped IPA, the beer lifts and cleanses the palate in readiness for the next mouthful as if it were the first.
The other advantage that the pub has over many Indian restaurants (rather ironically), is the opportunity for authenticity. With upwards of 20 different curries on the average Indian menu, it would be expensive and time consuming to make different base spice mixes for each dish, hence many have one generic curry base and add different finishing ingredients depending on the ordered dish. Even if you went for an "Indian specials board" - not a bad way to introduce extra bite to your repertoire - you'd still only need four or five dishes, which would still not necessitate a generic base. Method of service is a crucial part of getting the most from your Indian offering - from a customer experience angle, and a sales one.
Let's face it: if you get the former right, the latter usually follows. With European, plated dishes, there's something instinc-tively wrong about scooping-up half your dining buddy's food off his plate on to your own, particularly if you've got steak with a red wine sauce and he or she has been tucking into a creamy seafood pasta. No such faux pax when it comes to Indian. Presented in individual bowls in the middle of the table, it's a case of no holds barred and get stuck in. There's more mixing and matching to do than an orgy of free summer love.
And then of course there's the bonus of all the add-ons: naan bread, rice, papadams, and more side dishes than you can shake a cinnamon stick at. People are remarkably open to suggestion when it comes to Indian food too, so it's a great way to up the ante on average spend - without taking advantage of course. Talking of side dishes, this is where you can really up your gross profit too. While plain boiled cauliflower is about as appetising as the stock pot dregs, throw a bit of turmeric in the cooking water, or add a jar of vegetable pickle and it's a whole different story. Fry plain boiled potatoes with some chopped onion and spices, add spinach at the last moment and you've got a taste sensation to rival any main dish - except for goat.
It's true folks: goat makes awesome curry. While it might not cut the mustard served up Western-style compared to lamb, pork or beef, it somehow comes into a league of its own done the Indian way. It's also cheap as chips. So it's a very simple formula if you want the hottest pub menu in town: simply dust down the old restaurant curry cookbook; move those jars of spices that haven't seen the light of day since the days of the Raj to the front of the shelf; save the vegetable remnants, and un-tether the old goat.
Finally, to really learn about goats and curries book a holiday to Goa - and that's got to be tax-deductible.
Ask the experts
PubChef asks Mark Lyddy, national account controller for Tilda Foodservice, for his views on the curry market
Are curry theme nights a thing of the past? Theme nights are still very popular as demonstrated by the success of JD Wetherspoon's Thursday curry club and the recent launch of a similar club at Yates's venues. Theme nights don't have to be tacky, they simply require an element of effort by the pub. Has Chicken Tikka Masala had its day? Chicken Tikka Masala is still the best-selling indian dish in the mainstream market, which has become even more popular due to its inclusion by food manufacturers in retail products. Given the growing popularity in Thai cuisine I feel that the next big thing for pub menus will be Thai Green Curry which is a versatile sauce that can be used with both meat and fish and in a variety of ways beyond a curry including soups, starters and wraps. What would be your desert island ethnic dish? Thai is my favourite cuisine. My preferred dish is Neau Pad Prig Sod, which is sliced, prime fillet beef with green beans, green and red chillies and Thai sweet basil. I enjoy this with either Kao Pad (fried jasmine rice) or Vermicelli Thai rice noodles. To complete the meal experience I often opt for fresh Thai mangoes for dessert and Singha beer as an authentic accompaniment.
Peter Ridges, foodservice development director of Brahim's sauces.
What can Thai dishes add to a pub's menu? Thai dishes bring another dimension to the pub menu. By distinguishing the geographical region on the menu such as Thai Masaman Egg & Potato Curry or Thai Chilli Pork, caterers will show they have put some thought and imagination into the preparation of their menu and dishes. Normally you would just see Lamb Curry, which isn't exactly inspiring. By being more creative, you can generate more interest and appeal.
The potential for pub chefs to make their offerings special and different is huge. Pubs are great at running themed occasions, so why not run a Thai night or week? If a caterer is unsure how their customers will react to an exotic menu or dish, then they should put it to the test by offering smaller trial portions or even free tasters to get a reaction and build familiarity. The time is right for a more distinctive approach to the Asian regions and we can expect a higher profile for Thai, Malaysian and Indonesian food in the future.
Fox's top 10 curries
Goat curry Makhanwalla (Tandoori chicken curry) Rhogan Josh Gosht (Lamb in red gravy) Moghlai Murgh Dumpukht (Moghlai chicken with almonds and raisins)Vegetable Biriani Lamb Chana Masala (Lamb cooked with chick peas) King Prawn Korma Goan fish masala (sweet and sour fish with coconut) Aloo Gobhi Bhuna (potato and cauliflower) Karai Lamb (marinated lamb curry)
Top tips for an authentic curry
1. Use the freshest of ingredients - fresh onions, garlic, ginger, tomatoes, coriander 2. Use freshly-ground spices and store in a tightly closed jar 3. Ensure that at each stage of the cooking process, the ingredients are thoroughly cooked 4. Always garnish the dish with freshly chopped coriander
Source: Rakesh Kumar is executive chef at the Authentic Food Company.
Take a stab at balti lamb kebab
Lamb Kebabs & Rosemary with a Balti Sauce Glaze and Raita Served with Basmati Rice.
Ingredients: For the Kebabs1kg/21/4lb Balti sauce 1.5kg/3lb 5oz lamb neck fillet, cut into 2cm cubes 2 red and 2 yellow peppers, cut into 2cm chunks 2 large red onions, cut into 2cm chunks Rosemary Sprigs For the Yogurt Raita 800ml/11/2pts yoghurt 100g/31/2oz coriander 100g/31/2oz fresh mint Seasoning Juice of 1 lime
Method: Marinate lamb and the vegetables in the Balti sauce for at least 2 hours - longer marinating will tenderise the meat even more. To make the yoghurt raita, put all the ingredients in a food proce
