Field to fork - Cheese please me
Richard Fox reflects on why cheese and pubs are simply a match made in heaven.
Nothing could be less cheesy on a pub menu than a good cheese selection. Board, plate or platter, if it's well kept and appropriately served, it's as comforting a way to end a meal as the embrace of a loved one. Now that's cheesy! The other thing, of course, is it gives your menu an instant homegrown feel. There is nothing that defines a country's culinary identity more than its cheese. Mention Camembert, Parmigiano or Manchego and there's the positive reek of location and provenance. Find a local cheese and you've found a piece of rural heritage, a story of passion triumphing over adversity, and a unique flavour all rolled into one wax-covered ball.
The bonus is, cheese and pubs go together like strawberries and cream, and there's no prep or cooking involved. It's probably no coincidence, then, that many cheeses were originally made by monks, who were also making beer. Recipes grew up side-byside behind the same monastic walls. Both cheese and beer share the beautifully unpredictable elements of living organisms, resulting in character and flavour. Before I travelled to one of England's great inns to sample the delights of this rural industry, I wanted to visit the cheesemakers themselves, and check that nobody had swapped the Aga for the microwave, so to speak.
My first port of call was Shepherds Purse Cheese near the picturesque North Yorkshire market town of Thirsk. We were warmly welcomed into what was more penthouse office than rustic farmhouse, but these were merely the trappings of success. Behind the comfy sofas and designer desks, in the immortal words of Page and Plant, "the song remains the same". The slick, businesslike appearance of Shepherd's Purse belies the true, rural grit, commitment and passion that proprietor, Judy Bell, has for her cheese. With more awards than an A-list Oscar party, Shepherds Purse have reaped the rewards of an artisan approach to cheesemaking.
The truly extraordinary thing is that in 1987, Judy hadn't milked anything more lively than a carton. But with farming in the blood, and a passion for taste and perfection, she began crafting her first Wensleydale. Seventeen years on, the rest is history. With cheeses in Britain now made with everything from whole buffalo milk to ewe's milk, Shepherds Purse is a completely home-produced flavour. However, I still needed to visit the Swaledale cheese company, located in yet another picturesque market town of Richmond, before my cheese board would be truly complete.
It was fascinating to discover that the proprietors of this cheese company had also set up based on a labour of love rather than simple commercial common sense. David and Mandy Reed did everything from reading reams of text on cheese-making to visiting Swaledale cheese guru, Marjorie Longstaff - a cheese supplier from David's earlier days as a chef - in order to become artisan cheese-makers. After more tastings than an International Sommeliers conference, they reckoned it was time to unveil their creation to the public - who just couldn't get enough.
Made from 100% Swaledale cows milk, it's a product of belief and dedication. Firstly, cheeses are soaked in brine after pressing. This is a traditional method of infusing seasoning into the cheese, whereas many manufacturers will use the quicker but less tasty method of dry salting. Cheeses are then cut to size, hand-trimmed and dipped in wax 24 times to get the perfect seal. The next day, it was time to experience these cheeses in their natural habitat - the pub. I spent the long drive through the wild Yorkshire countryside seriously questioning the wisdom of my recent migration from "the big smoke" to Yorkshire.
It was deepest June, the rain was lashing down relentlessly - and it was cold. In short, I was not a happy bunny. But then again, I had yet to experience the Apple Tree Inn. One of the truly magical things about good food and hospitality is their power to transform the recipient from maudlin depressive into a Cheshirecat-who-got-the-cream within minutes. If, as chefs and publicans, we can recognise this potential power, harness it and use it, it's kryptonite in our hands.
I half expected the Apple Tree Inn in Marton to take off space-ship style from the ground to bring good food and cheer to some other poor soul getting depressed by the weather. And before you suspect that there was something more sinister than a few ceps in with my wild mushrooms, I should give you a taster of why I was so buoyed up by my visit. An orchard of apples, plums and damsons takes its place at the foot of the beer garden, which in turn follows on from the herb garden and the vegetable plot - all expertly tended by Alf Cass, local retired farmer. Inside the pub, the home-produced theme continues in earnest with a selection of oils, pickled quails eggs and vinegars to make Fortnums look like a motorway service station. Even at noon on a Wednesday lunchtime, candles are burning in every nook and cranny of the pub. This is all very welcoming indeed, and it all added to my excitement at the prospect of the food.
After tucking into a superb homemade ham hock terrine with pineapple chutney, my cheese board arrived - on a board. As if this wasn't enough from a presentation point of view, there were even a couple of hand-made pastry mice to help me eat it! They'll also give you a little box to take them away in. As I tucked into Mrs Bell's mild, creamy Yorkshire Blue and the Swaledale Cheese Company's perfect rendition of an 11th century classic, with warm, home-made bread and assorted crisp breads, washed down with a pint of fine cask ale, I realised that this cheese board is a perfect example of a great food experience.
It's a combination of the environment in which the food is delivered and presented; and just as importantly, the work, passion and experience of the people involved in the production of that food before it ever arrives on the pub premises. Getting into good cheese is like appreciating great wine or beer. Different regions, varieties, and nuances of flavour within the same variety, conspire to create a wealth of epicurean opportunities. Buy and keep your cheese with discernment and respect and it will reward you with customer compliments, increased beer sales, and less dessert prep!
Contacts:
Shepherds Purse Cheese Limited 01845 587220
The Swaledale Cheese Company 01748 824932
The Apple Tree Inn Marton, near Pickering 01751 431457
