Craft Talk - Menu labelling

In the first of a new column, members of the Craft Guild of Chefs offer their views on the industry's big issues.

This month guild member John Feeney, European culinary director at food architects Griffith Laboratories, looks at the divisive issue of menu labelling, which some chefs welcome as something customers are demanding, while others fear it as a logistical nightmare.

Consumers are more culinary aware now than they have ever been and want to be informed about what they are eating, its origins, whether it is authentic, how it is grown or reared and even what feed has been used.

There is also an increased trend towards dieting and health in general, resulting in an interest in calorie, fat, salt and nutrient content.

On top of all this, there are more consumers reporting food allergies, making menu labelling all the more important.

In light of this I think we will certainly see more menu labelling. And although I feel customers should have a right to this information when eating out, especially those with allergies where eating the wrong thing could have a serious effect on their health, I don't think it should become a legal requirement.

Menu labelling is a time-consuming and complex task to expect of chefs in addition to running their business. While it would be easier for large chains that already work closely with their suppliers to collate all the information, for small independents, where chefs create different dishes on a daily basis, it could be quite difficult to keep on top of.

The only way I can see it really working is if suppliers are willing to work more closely with pubs and advise them on what they are supplying.

There is the likelihood that adding all this information to a menu will see it become too cluttered and complicated.

This is the first thing we look at when trouble shooting - we take a menu back to basics, so if you then go and include every detail of a dish, the menu can get very messy and it can even spoil the eating experience.

I've been in pubs before where I've asked someone else to choose for me simply because there is too much on a menu.

A better option is for pubs to train and educate their staff on each dish so that if they are quizzed by customers the staff can immediately put their minds at rest.

Alternatively, I would advise pubs to have a separate document detailing the ingredients and nutritional content of each dish for staff to show customers. This could even be made public so that customers don't feel awkward asking, which is often the case, especially among consumers with allergies who think they are being perceived as fussy. I know there are restaurants in particular doing this and it really does pay, helping to relax the customer.

Having said that, there are certain circumstances where labelling can really inspire a menu, for example, in high end gastro pubs where using an olive oil from Australia rather than Italy can mark out a dish as being unique and really something special.

At the end of the day it is down to the pub - they should know their customers and their demands. But one thing is for sure, customers are becoming more inquisitive and they are not afraid to ask - so be prepared.

For further information about the Craft Guild of Chefs, telephone 0208 948 3870