Pub Review - The Blagdon Inn, Taunton, Somerset

The Blagdon Inn, Blagdon Hill, Taunton, Somerset

In need of a break and some decent food? Then take the Taunton exit (J25) off the M5, pick up the Trull road out of town and you will find this 400-year-old Somerset longhouse in three miles.

So, why forgo Taunton Deane Services?

Blagdon Hill's former New Inn was given a new name and a new lease of life by Steve and Sarah Rushton in early 2004, just two years after refurbishing and reviving the fortunes of their first pub, the Digger's Rest in Woodbury Salterton,

near Exeter.

The Rushtons are passionate about locally sourced foods and creating informal and attractive surroundings where customers are able to feel relaxed. With a knack for finding the right pub in the right location, they immediately saw the potential of turning this old cider house into a stylish gastro pub. A quiet village location on the edge of the Blackdown Hills, just minutes from Taunton, with easy access for M5 travellers, and a modern menu focusing on fresh, local produce, is undoubtedly a recipe for success.

Stripped back to reveal thick stone walls, heavy beams and a fine inglenook fireplace, the stylish, rambling interior sports flagstone and polished wood floors, earthy colours on the walls, a blazing winter log fire fronted by deep sofas, and an eclectic mix of old dining tables in cosy eating areas. The sun-trap patio garden is ideal for alfresco drinking and dining.

Equal enthusiasm is given to the range of drinks and to creating the lunch and dinner menus. Ale drinkers will find brews from Devon and Somerset micro-breweries, wine lovers

have an excellent global list to choose from, including nine by the glass, while drivers are spoilt with a range of Devon organic soft drinks.

West Country produce, organic if available, is the mainstay of the productive kitchen. Fish is sourced from Brixham and Looe, and eggs and meat are free range, notably the Ruby Red beef from Exmoor and pork from the Blackdown Hills.

Having secured the last table on a busy Monday evening, and having been impressed with the décor, the drinks and the food menus, the food lived up to expectations. Juicy scallops, pan-fried with bacon, proved 'moreish', as did the light oil and balsamic dressing on the accompanying leaves.

A splendid precursor to a succulent ruby red rib-eye steak, served with hand-cut chips, slow-roasted tomato and caramelised red onion. Equally tender beef, this time in rich, dark gravy, is used in the steak and kidney pie, served straight from the oven with a buttery shortcrust pastry topping.

Puddings were mainly of the cake, sponge and brownie variety. However, the cheeseboard proved a winner - an impressive array of unpasteurised West Country cheeses.

The perfect pit-stop for M5 travellers and local foodies.

David Hancock

PubChef rating (out of 10)

Ambiance 9, Value for money 8, Flavour factor 9, Overall impression 9

BEERS: Butcombe Bitter, Scattor Rock Devonian, Otter Ale

MAIN COURSES: £7.95 to £14.95

WINES ON LIST: Blackboard list of wines by the glass - five reds, eight whites, one rosé, and one Champagne.

ANOTHER THING: Footpaths head off into the beautiful Blackdown Hills from the village, so bring your walking boots and work off lunch.