The Surgery - Tracking down rare breeds
Tracking down rare breeds
Dear Surgery: There are lots of top chefs who are selecting rare-breed meat for their dishes. How can I source this?
The Surgery says: Many top-end restaurant and gastropub chefs are adding rare-breed beef, pork and lamb to their menus. This reflects increased customer demand for the very best meat available, often with full traceability listed on menus.
Of course, rare-breed meat is more expensive, but this is a premium product and people who appreciate good food are prepared to pay for it. The Rare Breeds Survival Trust set up its Traditional Breeds Meat Marketing Scheme in 1994 to establish a farmer-to-butcher distribution chain. In 2003 the scheme was put in the hands of the Traditional Breeds Meat Marketing Company, which accredits independent butchers to stock and market rare and traditional breeds. The Accredited Butchers will often also supply hotels, restaurants and pubs. For more information, contact the Traditional Breeds Meat Marketing Company on 01285 869666.
One of the top rare-breed meat producers is Herefordshire farmer Richard Vaughan, who supplies meat to top London chefs including Michel Roux Jr (Le Gavroche), Bruce Poole (Chez Bruce) and Henry Harris (Racine), as well as a number of gastropubs. Richard hangs his well-marbled Longhorn beef for nearly five weeks to produce meat with a deep flavour. He also rears Middle White pigs and Ryeland sheep. Richard's meat is available via mail order in insulated boxes, each one containing around 18kg (40lb) of mixed cuts and joints. For more information, contact Pedigree Meats at Huntsham Farm, Herefordshire, on 01600 890296 or check out the company's website, www.huntsham.com
Any ideas for rhubarb chutney?
Dear Surgery: We have a glut of rhubarb in our garden - any suggestions for a chutney recipe, which we can then sell in the pub?
The Surgery says: An increasing number of pubs and restaurants are making their own products to sell behind the bar. The Alma in Islington, London, recently launched a range of pickles and preserves, including piccalilli, tomato chutney, pickled red cabbage and marmalade. They sell for £2.50 for 250g (9oz) and £3.50 for 400g (14oz). The most economical way of doing this in a pub kitchen is to use seasonal produce, rather than imported fruit and vegetables. Rhubarb is in season now so it's the perfect time to make chutneys and jams. I found a great recipe for spiced rhubarb chutney in The National Trust Book of the Country Store Cupboard by Sara Paston-Williams. It's perfect with cold meats and cheeses.
Spiced rhubarb chutney
Ingredients
150ml/5fl oz of water
150ml/5fl oz of malt vinegar
900g/2lb sugar
1 level tsp ground cinnamon
1 level tsp all spice
1 level tsp ground cloves
¼ tsp grated nutmeg
1.35kg/3lb rhubarb
450g/1lb de-stoned raisins or sultanas
Method
Put the water, vinegar and sugar into a large pan. Tie spices in a muslin bag and add this to the pan. Simmer for about 20 minutes.
Remove the bag of spices. Cut the washed rhubarb in 2.5cm (1") lengths and add to vinegar syrup with raisins and sultanas.
Bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for about 90 minutes or until thick. Spoon into prepared jars and seal when cold.
Tips on making the most of the asparagus season
Dear Surgery: The asparagus season is upon us - any top tips for cooking this delicacy?
The Surgery says: The British asparagus season lasts until early June, which makes it one of the shortest seasons for any vegetable or fruit, so it's worth making the most of it when you can. Asparagus can be boiled, steamed, roasted, grilled or griddled. It also makes a fine soup (see The Gastropub Cookbook by Diana Henry for a great recipe for this by Steve Harris of the Sportsman at Seasalter, Whitstable). For more ideas, Mark Hix's British Food book (Quadrille, £8.99) features simple dishes for asparagus with hollandaise sauce and boiled duck's egg with asparagus soldiers, which is a good idea for a bar-snack menu. When Franco Taruschio ran the Walnut Tree at Abergavenny, Monmouthshire, he used to serve breadcrumbed asparagus, which involved boiling or steaming the asparagus and dipping it into beaten eggs and then a mixture of breadcrumbs and Parmesan. He would finish it by frying it in a combination of foaming olive oil and butter until golden and serve it hot with wedges of lemon. Another nice bar-snack idea for any pub.
For more information about asparagus, visit: www.british-asparagus.co.uk where you will find lots of useful tips, menu ideas and information about this tasty delicacy.
Take it with a pinch of salt
Dear Surgery: Customers are now as conscious of salt as they are of fat - how can I adapt my menu without losing flavour or customers?
The Surgery says: As a first step licensees will find there are numerous products in the market that have been through a salt-reduction programme. These alternatives have a two-fold set of benefits; they allow popular dishes to remain on the menu in an improved format and allow publicans to draw on their beneficial attributes with "reduced salt" and "no added salt" menu labels.
For adventurous pub chefs who prefer to prepare their dishes from basic ingredients, a salt alternative such as LoSalt can be the solution. It provides all the flavour of standard table salt, but contains 66% less sodium. A second effortless solution is to refrain from seasoning dishes prior to service. Publicans can provide sachets of regular salt and salt substitutes on the table and allow consumers to season their meals as they wish.
Staff can also be used as an effective sales tool. By empowering them to talk confidently about the different meal options, they will be able to share their knowledge of the menu and help to meet the needs of each customer.
Remember though, that while customers will be aware of the issues regarding salt, there will be occasions when they may want to "treat" themselves. Publicans can keep all their customers happy with a balanced menu offering, which ultimately leaves the choice up to the individual.
Advice from Ben Woodhouse, 3663 catering development controller.
