Break with tradition

Fiona Sims suggests wines to wow customers and

complement your festive menu

I know Port isn't just supposed to be for Christmas, but it seems to work so well then (apologies to the Port Institute, which works tirelessly to remind the industry that Port can be enjoyed at plenty of other occasions throughout the year).

I was reminded of that fact the other day by Cockburn's, which has recruited Chris Barber, former chef to HRH the Prince of Wales, to come up with a few Christmas party canapé ideas. They sound rather good - a bit fancy for a pub, maybe, but they might help to prompt you to come up with some ideas.

With Cockburn's white Port and tonic (a favourite aperitif and not a bad Christmas suggestion), Barber suggests griddled prawns with a hint of chilli or salted almonds; for carpaccio of venison with bitter chocolate dressing, he suggests Cockburn's Special Reserve.

With the Late Bottled Vintage (LBV), he favours a tomato gazpacho consommé.

"The refreshing, ripe tomato and fresh herb flavours of the dish are enhanced by the Port's rich cherry flavours," explains Barber.

Finally, a 10-year-old Tawny gets a swordfish skewer - a bit radical, I know, but Barber reckons it works: "The Tawny's sweet nutty finish is a great match for the spikiness of the swordfish marinated in lemon with a touch of chilli, skewered with chorizo."

I believe him.

That's the party sorted - so what about the rest of Christmas?

Fizzy festivities

Let's start with fizz. It's perfect for any celebration (even when you're not in festive mood) but instead of serving it as an aperitif, why not offer a Christmas lunch with fizz throughout? It's food-friendly, and versatile, too.

You don't have to go down the Champagne route - but hey, it's Christmas, when people push the boat out. Think Pol Roger, Gosset, Taittinger, Roederer - and you can think pink bubbly, too, for an extra festive kick. But there's plenty of New World fizz that will do the job, not forgetting Cava.

Now for your starter white. I'm thinking smoked salmon, or foie gras - for the latter, look at Austria's Grüner Veltliners, aiming for a richer style with a lovely peppery freshness. Names to look out for include Bründlmayer, Kurt Angerer and Fred Loimer.

For the salmon, try Vouvray from the Loire (sec is dry, Moelleux is sweeter) - both still hugely underrated (to check out RSJ's list, visit www.rsj.uk.com or call 0207 928 4554).

Next, your character-filled reds. The bird needs a red that packs a punch - though if it's a white you're after, Austrian Grüner Veltliner works well for me, as does a particularly blousy New World Viognier.

Talking turkey

So, where to look? South-west France. I'm talking Madiran, Marcillac, Gaillac, Cahors and Irouleguy - Guildford-based supplier Les Caves de Pyrene (01483 538820) will sort you out with a few cases to see you over the Christmas period, though your regular supplier should have a couple of these wines to try - the South West is hot, hot, hot.

Or you could also look at Rioja - another turkey-friendly wine. I've just returned from a visit and tasted several that would fit. Rioja is one of the few wines to be held back by producers until ready to drink - so it's a bit special, too. A favourite is Remelluri (visit www.adnams.co.uk or call 01503 727222).

Just a reminder - Crianzas spend a minimum of one year in oak casks; reservas spend a minimum of three years ageing between oak barrel and bottle, with at least one year in cask, while gran reservas only make an appearance in the best vintages, spending a minimum of two years ageing in oak casks and three years in bottle before being released for sale.

Portugal, too, deserves consideration for the bird. There's the Douro, of course, with its starry reds, but consider Dão, too, where granite rules. Some of Portugal's finest red wines come from granite soils and are made from grape varieties such as Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Alfrocheiro and Encruzado - sometimes known as Borrado das Moscas (translated as "fly droppings"). That'll get them talking.

Now, pud. We should be drinking much more Madeira, sherry, Sauternes et al. And if you can't sell a sweet wine at Christmas, you might as well give up now. PX sherry is liquid Christmas pudding - so maybe overkill (though you could sell it as an alternative). My favourite is Passito di Pantelleria from Italy, or, if the budget allows, Hungarian Tokaji.