A Blanc canvas
Top chef Raymond Blanc talks to Lucy Britner about pubs, restaurants and other animals
Raymond is busy recruiting wannabe restaurateurs for a second series of BBC2's The Restaurant. His new protégés Jane and Jeremy Hooper are safely installed at the Thatch, Thame, Oxfordshire - a site he refers to as a pub.
"Now you can call me 'Raymond the publican'," he announces proudly, as he shares his views about the industry.
What do you like about the pub trade?
When I first came to England in 1972, pubs were very different. They were still the heart of the community but were about drinking. Now, pubs have to cater for different social occasions. I think the Thatch is a good example of what a modern pub should be - the bar menu is simple, delicious and inexpensive and people are welcome to come in and drink. But now pubs have a dual purpose - the Thatch will soon open seven days a week and serve the community as a pub always should.
Are pubs the future of eating out?
Pubs are very important and relevant to what already exists in the hospitality arena. The main difference is that restaurants have a strong, structured standard and tried-and-tested training régime. Pubs are exciting, friendly, hospit-
able places that are the fabric of the community. They are also becoming the fabric of the local economy in that they are about seasonal, regional produce from local sources. Pubs should champion local crafts, such as cheese-making. The pub is reconnecting with values that had been lost.
Will the British pub ever become the equivalent of the French bistro?
French bistros are about a cheap food offering and a bar. In Britain, we are learning about traditional rustic food very fast. A few years ago, the gastropub really took hold and the menus went a bit crazy with mixed cuisines - it was like a map on a plate in some places. Now they seem to be settling into local, seasonal, rustic fare - exactly what pub food should be.
Do you think the last series of The Restaurant highlighted issues in our industry, such as inexperienced people opening restaurants and then failing, and staff retention problems?
Yes, definitely. The pairs were set challenges on the show to demonstrate their ability to adapt. But a real restaurant situation is much more difficult and complicated than the challenges - as the couples learned. There are so many more elements to running a restaurant and I want to show more of this in the next series. Running a restaurant is a massive commitment.
What advice would you give chefs and licensees entering the trade?
1. Assess the skills of potential staff properly before you employ them - this will help with retention.
2. Ensure all potential staff fully understand your vision for your outlet and want to be a part of it.
3. Training is essential. Everything should be written down so that all staff have equal access to information. It's important that staff are happy with what they are doing. Of course, this isn't easy when you're so busy. Bonus schemes are important - staff need to be rewarded for their efforts.
Did you always set out to run a pub with the winners of The Restaurant?
No, we started looking for a place a long time before the show started. I wanted somewhere close to Le Manoir, but we couldn't find a restaurant, so we widened our search to include pubs. The beauty of the pub is that it's not that different from a restaurant - but there is still a difference. Also, Lee Cash, from Peach, is a very successful licensee and he trained at Brasserie Blanc. Peach's input has been very important and I have learned a lot about pubs from the people there.
What's your favourite pub dish?
I love roasts: roast beef or new-season lamb, and slow-cooked mutton with rosemary. I also love bubble & squeak and steak & kidney pie. But really I'm a dessert man - spotted dick and sticky toffee pudding are two of my big favourites.
What do you consider to be crimes against pub food?
Six or seven years ago when some pubs tried to become restaurants, menu descriptions and food became over-fancy and extremely fussy.
Where are your favourite pubs?
The Masons Arms in South Leigh; the Sir Charles Napier in Chinnor; and the Fishes in North Hinksey - all in Oxfordshire.
