Masterclass - Knife and pork

In a new series PubChef gives you guidance on how to get the best out of different ingredients and how pub chefs around the UK are using them.

 This month, with the help of the Meat and Livestock Commission, we look at cooking belly pork.

 There has never been a better time to serve pork on your pub menu. Although it is one of the world's favourite meats, UK caterers in the past had an unfounded misconception that pork was perceived by customers as a low-value product and, as a result, featured it far less than other meats. But pork is not only extremely flavoursome, it actually provides significant profit opportunities, and, as a result, is now taking its rightful place in many top pubs and restaurants around the UK, with chefs embracing its versatility and perceived healthiness.

 One of the main benefits of using pork on your menu is that it encompasses a wide range of cuts and lends itself to an equally wide range of uses. Pork belly, in particular, can be cooked in a variety of ways from roasting through steaming and braising to stewing. One of its main benefits,however, is that it is very competitive in cost. For example, for a belly block portion of 200g the cost would be (based on £2.42/Kg) 48p. Additional ingredients such as vegetables or potatoes would increase the cost to around 83p.

 The gross profit for this product priced at £4.15 would be 80% - impressive by any standards. The British Meat Quality Standard Mark for pork is something that many consumers look for, as it signifies that the product has been produced within a scheme that embraces high quality standards and delivers food safety assurances.

 The quality standard mark might be something you want to consider when purchasing your pork, as the assurances it provides should be important to both you and your customers. So next time you think of cooking a chicken breast, why not set yourself a challenge and cook pork belly instead. It could be an ideal way of adding different flavours and interest to the menu, as well as proving a fantastic way to make a higher gross profit.

 Recipe​ Anthony Williams is head chef at the Williams Arms, Braunton, Devon. His Devonshire-style wet-roasted blackpudding - stuffed belly pork dish, pictured right, won the British Meat Pub Chef of the Year award in 2003. Serves 10

 Cost per portion:​ £1.08

 Ingredients:​1kg/2lb 4oz pork belly - boned, rolled and stuffed with black pudding 100ml/31/ 2fl oz olive oil 50g/2oz salt 250ml/81/ 2fl oz cider For the sauce​ 1.1lt/13/4pt medium cider 1.1lt/13/4pt slightly thickened stock or brown sauce (sauce Espagnole) 75g/3oz apple jelly - home-made 45ml/2fl oz cider vinegar 120g/4oz shallots - finely chopped 25g/1oz butter 30ml/1fl oz olive oil Sea salt and black pepper to taste For the mini dumplings​ 250g/9oz plain flour 125g/4oz suet Large pinch baking powder Large pinch salt 100ml/31/2fl oz water

 Method:​Rub the oil and salt into the rind of the pork to make the crackling. Place the pork on a trivet over cider in the roasting dish, cook at 200°C/400°F/Gas-mark 6 for 20 minutes, then 170°C/325°F/Gas-mark 3 for one hour. While the pork is cooking, prepare the sauce. Sweat the chopped shallots in a little butter and oil and then de-glaze using one pint of cider. Reduce this by half, before adding the thickened stock and season.

 When the sauce comes to a simmer, add apple jelly and vinegar. Simmer until the jelly has dissolved. Add more jelly or vinegar if required (this will depend on the flavour of the jelly) until you are left with a sweet tasting sauce, with a tang, but still retaining the cider flavour. Check your pork at regular intervals. Make your dumpling mix and roll into small balls, about 2cm max. Cook them in the sauce for 8 minutes. Remove the pork from the oven and serve thickly sliced on a bed of fondant potato scallops and stir-fried spring greens with apple. Drizzle the sauce with the dumplings around the dish.

 Advice on cooking belly pork​

 1.​ Use meat from a reputable supplier and ensure that you know the origin of the meat (using quality-assured meats would enable you to tell your customers that the meat is well cared for and welfare friendly).

 2.​ Discuss the specification you require with your butcher (do you want the full belly strip with bone in, or would you prefer belly blocks that are already scored etc?). You need to clarify this before you start to buy.

 3.​ If you are roasting smaller pieces of belly pork, take note of the meat grain so that you cut across it in the cooked item.

 4.​ Trim meat to the desired fat level, ensure there is an even thickness and remove any noticeable marks and sinews. Remember that some breeds of pork are fatter than others, and this can make quite a difference in specification, so make sure you discuss this with your butcher. You can get some information on breed types from the MLC or the Rare Breeds Trust - 01285 869666.

 5.​ Belly roasts well, but can also be potroasted, braised and steamed. Experiment with each method to suit your kitchen appliances.

 6.​ Brown at a high temperature, but slow cook for a long time at a lower temperature (above 75°C) to ensure the belly will be tender. (You will need to experiment with the cooking times as they may differ with different equipment, but more than 2 hours at least for a 3kg joint is a good recommendation).

 7.​ Cooking belly pork confit style (immersing in fat/oil to cook) can be beneficial, as it helps keep the meat moist during the cooking process and can be used to impart many flavours through to the meat (thyme, garlic, mint, rosemary etc). Use a muslin bag with the flavours so they can be removed easily.

 8.​ Sometimes it may be necessary to remove the skin and cook the crackling separately. Alternatively you can cook the belly thoroughly and then place the skin face down in a hot pan for 10 or 15 minutes to create the crackling.

 Source:​ Meat and Livestock Commission

 Belly filling ideas​

 Andrew Pern​, chef/proprietor at the Angel Inn, Hetton, North Yorkshire, uses the cut in a recipe of crisp belly of pork with Angel's black pudding and mustard mash served with buttered spinach. The pork belly is slowly braised in a pre-heated oven for 31/ 2 hours. To serve, the mash is placed in the centre of warmed bowls. It is then topped with the grilled black pudding, followed by spinach, if using. The crisp pork belly is then placed on top.

 Brent Castle​, chef-owner of the Three Crowns Inn, in Ullingswick, Herefordshire, serves grilled pork with braised pork belly and cassoulet of chorizo sausage. He braises the pork for 11/2 to 2 hours, or until the pork is soft and tender.

 Dennis Mwakulua​, director's head chef, at Avenance, in London, serves roast belly of Norfolk pork, tamarind glazed with Kachumbari salad.

 Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay -​ whose small chain of restaurants includes the triple-Michelin-starred Gordon Ramsay Restaurant in Chelsea - uses a boneless and skinless rolled joint of pork belly to create his spectacular braised belly of pork in a rich glaze. The 1kg joint of meat cooks for 21/2 to 3 hours to become meltingly tender, before being served with wilted spinach, asparagus and pomme purée. (The full recipe is featured in the book Gordon Ramsay's Secrets, Quadrille Publishing, £25.)