French Goat's Cheese

Goat's cheese has been tipped as one of the 'hot' ingredients to watch. To find how pubs can tap into its growing popularity we visited two award winning pubs.

Gourmet Goodies​

Mark Emberton​ and Paul McElhinney​ took over the run-down Draper's Arm pub in leafy north London three years ago. Since then, they've picked up countless accolades including Evening Standard Pub of the Year in 2003. Says head chef, Mark, "Although I've worked at some of the country's best restaurants (Dorchester, Savoy, Belvedere are just a few), I've always wanted to have my own pub and this one came about quite by accident. My brother was intending to develop the Draper's Arms for residential use but couldn't get planning permission, so I saw my chance to run a gastropub and took it."​

The success of the Draper's Arms​ lies in the fact that it's still a real pub with a marvelous selection of real ales and wines, but with some exemplary cooking too. The food is modern European in style and Mark takes his inspiration from his time spent managing Antony Worrall Thompson's​ restaurant empire.

"My favourite ingredients are belly of pork, cap of rump for two (sourced specially from Argentina) and my French Crottin goat's cheeses,"​ says Mark. You can't go wrong if you've got goat's cheese on the menu. A grilled Crottin salad is a must, but why stop there when there's such a great choice of French goat's cheeses to choose from. I like to experiment with some of the more unusual varieties."

Mark's top tips:​

Goat's cheese has a lovely subtle flavour, so don't hide it. Use mild creamy goat's cheeses and goat's log to tempt customers, as not everyone has an acquired taste for the stronger varieties Don't forget to include a couple of goat's cheeses on the cheeseboard - their unusual shapes will add visual appeal. Cheeses used:​ Sainte Maure de Touraine AOC,French Goat's Log, Mothais sur feuille or Goat's Camembert. Supplier:​ La Fromagerie

Mark's French goat's cheese recipes:​

Starter​ Vine Wrapped Goat's Cheese with Caramelised Plums. Sainte Maure de Touraine cheese is wrappedin vine leaves with olive paste and baked then served with pesto and caramelised plums.

Main​Pan Fried Gnocchi with Duck Livers. Goat's Cheese and Spinach. The soft flaky texture of goat's log is perfect with gnocchi.

Dessert​Honey Glazed Goat's Cheese with Spiced Apricot Compote. Mothais sur feuille goat's cheese is grilled with honey and served on toasted brioche with a spiced apricot compote.

Honey Glazed Goat's Cheese with Spiced Apricot Compote​ Serves 4

Ingredients:​2 Mothais sur feuille goat's cheese (or goat's camembert) 4 slices of brioche 4 tbsp honey 4 tbsp spiced apricot compote

Apricot Compote​ 600g dried apricots 1/4 cup honey 1/4 cup white wine 1/4 cup orange juice 2 bay leaves 2 cinnamon sticks 1 orange, zested 1 lemon, zested

Method​ Wash the apricots in warm water and place in a heavy pan with the remaining ingredients, cook over a low heat until the apricots have plumped and the liquid has reduced to syrup.

To serve​ Toast the brioche and keep warm. Put the Mothais sur Feuille goat's cheese on a baking tray, spoon over the honey. Grill until the cheese bubbles. Place the cheese on top of the brioche and spoon over the compote. Drizzle the plate with the apricot syrup.

The Draper's Arms,44 Barnsbury Street,London N1 1ER,0207 619 0348 ​www.thedrapersarms.co.uk​​