Battle of the cheeses

To serve and protect British cheese comes first at the Coastguard in its own battle of Waterloo with the French. JOHN HARRINGTON reports from the front line in Dover

From the bloody fields of Agincourt to the muddy fields of Twickenham, throughout history Britain and France have never been short of locations to do battle.

Now, thanks to Sam Wydymus, chef and co-owner of the Coastguard pub in St Margaret's in Cliffe, Kent, a new battlefield has emerged.

The Coastguard's "Waterloo" cheeseboard sees the best British cheeses pitted against Gaelic favourites. It has caused quite a stir in the cheese world, helping the Coastguard clinch a highly-commended award at the 2004 British Cheese Awards ­ the only pub to get selected.

Cheese has become a specialist area since experienced caterers Sam and husband Nigel bought the Coastguard in August 2001.

It was originally best known for its fish, but over time Sam's love of cheese filtered into the menu and is now prominent.

"Cheese is a passion of mine anyway," says Sam. "I grew up eating lots of different types of cheeses and I started with a love of French cheese. Over the past 10 years or so, as British cheese has become more and more prevalent and more and more accessible, we have focused on British cheese as well."

More to it than meets the eye

The pub typically stocks 25 to 30 cheeses at one time, and the separate cheese menu offers a selection of the best from Britain or France for £5.50.

The Waterloo cheeseboard, which costs £6.50, includes five cheeses from each country.

Sam says: "It is really to say to people, there's more to cheese than meets the eye'. A lot of people say they only eat French cheese. We can say, why not try them together so you can compare them?' Some of the most opinionated customers are shocked to find the cheese they like the best is from Sussex or Kent, because they have been brought up on myths about French cheese.

"The best thing about Waterloo is that it provokes debate and gets people appreciating different tastes."

Closest pub to the enemy'

The Coastguard could hardly be better placed to become a specialist cheese pub. Located down a winding country road and stuck on a ridge under Dover's famous white cliffs, it claims to be the closest British pub to France, which is just 21 miles away, and it has a very European feel.

Mobile phones can only pick up French signals and the only accessible radio stations are from France and Belgium.

The clientele also has a real European flavour, with frequent visitors from France, Belgium or Holland, in addition to their regular customers, who, Nigel explains, travel up to 30 miles to dine.

The pub's location has other advantages. Sam frequently makes the 35-minute trip to Boulogne to buy French cheeses from renowned cheesemonger Philip Oliver ("the big cheese").

"We know the shop very well," says Sam. "It only holds two British cheeses. The idea, as part of the Waterloo, is to take some of the cheese that we regularly use and find a match.

"Our plan is to make him take the Waterloo test' so he is persuaded to stock many more great British cheeses."

She adds: "It's quicker for us to go to France and purchase certain things than it is to drive up to the London cash and carries. If we wanted olive oil we would have to go to London, but can get it cheaper and quicker in France."

The menu depends on what is available from local suppliers, although there is always an option of poultry, offal or game, and a vegetarian dish, and of course a good range of fish. Cheese is included on starters, mains and desserts. "We can pretty much do anything with it," says Sam.

The couple put great importance on using products from local suppliers. "It's almost like a community agreement," says Sam. "They supply us and then they come in and eat here."

Only fresh ingredients are used at the pub ­ microwaves are banned ­ and the bread, pastry and biscuits are made on-site. Sunday roasts are also off the menu at the Coastguard; Sam says they don't want to get involved in the "price war" on traditional pub food that has been waged by other nearby pubs.

Ales can be the perfect match

The drinks side is also strong, especially in the summer.

Between 30 and 60 bottled ales from local Kent brewers to microbrewers across the coun-try are usually available at any one time. There is also a good range of Belgian fruit beers and single malt whiskies.

Like the cheeses, the beers are stocked seas-onally. Sometimes Sam and Nigel choose their beers based on what's on the menu and some customers book a table to coincide with particular beer and cheese matchings.

"I'm not sure it could work under the beer tie," adds Nigel. "If we are limited in anyway we would lose our ability to react."

They take great pride in their food and drink selection, and stress the importance of not compromising on quality when the number of diners swells in the summer.

"We don't start cooking chicken nuggets because we [could] go up from 30 to 400 covers," says Sam. "We don't see why people shouldn't expect the same standard of food. There are other ways of running a business and we could make a great deal of money if we wanted to. But at the end of the day this is our life. It's a lifestyle choice, and our quality of life is very good."

On the menu

Starters

Soup of the day, served with the Coastguard's own baked bread ­ £4

House pâté, scented with orange, tarragon and a nip of brandy, served with hot buttered toast ­ £5

Fresh Scottish king scallops seared with fleur de sel ­ £5.50

Mains

Local beef fillet steak topped with whisky-fried haggis, served with fresh vegetables, neeps and tatties ­ £15.50

Hoegaarden battered cod or haddock, served with "Garden of Kent" fresh salad and double-fried chips ­ £9

Fresh Sussex chicken breast pan-fried with cinnamon, served with quince and rosewater glaze and roast vegetable cous cous ­ £8.50

Local lamb and local ale (Gadds or Hopdaemon) steamed pudding, with rich gravy, butter-mashed potatoes and fresh winter vegetables ­ £9

Desserts (all £4)

Dense dark chocolate stout cake, with "drunken" cherries and pouring cream

Baked white chocolate and ginger-snap cheesecake

Tia Maria, banana & toffee sundaes

Facts and figures

Food accounts for 80% of sales at the Coastguard, falling to around 60% in the summer. The best-selling dish is Tart of the Day. The 32-cover restaurant is dwarfed by the 250-cover outside area. There's also space for 12 diners at the bar. The number of diners per day can top 400 in the summer.