Beer and food matching: Steak and kidney pie

This month - What would you serve with steak and kidney pie? John Porter gets some expert advice.

Matching good pub grub with great beer is the perfect way for pubs to play to their strengths. However, the complex flavours and wide variety of beers on offer mean many publicans find making recommendations a tough call.

Never fear. Help is at hand in the shape of Pub Food's panel of beer and food matching experts. This time around, we've given the panel a real pub food classic to get their teeth into - steak and kidney pie or pudding.

Prime chunks of steak, tender kidney, rich gravy, onions, pastry. There are plenty of flavours and textures at work there, and it's going to be a brave beer that takes up the challenge.

• Ben Bartlett, The Union Pub Company:​

"Ye olde steak & kidney pie is a dish that has passed the test of time and traditionally was made with oysters and called 'Pickwick pudding'. In keeping with tradition I looked north and choose Jennings, whose beers are traditionally brewed using pure Lakeland water drawn from the brewery's own well. To match such a rich dish you need a strong, dark satisfying ale and I would marry Sneck Lifter, which is warming and full of complex flavours."

Paul Morgan, chef/licensee, the Shears Inn, Collingbourne Ducis, Wiltshire:​

"Guinness has a very bitter flavour which cuts right through a steak and kidney pie in a way that standard bitters can't. Steak and kidney has a very rich flavour, but the way we cook it, adding small onions, it's also surprisingly quite sweet. The bitterness of Guinness helps to counter that - in fact, we add Guinness to our steak & kidney pies as an ingredient."

Ben McFarland, Beer Writer of the Year:​

"Brakspear Triple has a nutty, malty aroma which will bring out the caramelised flavours of the onions, and will stand up well against the richness of the dish. This new beer is hopped three times at different stages, which gives it the range of complex aromas needed to accompany such a distinctive dish. And it's damned strong."

Mike Robinson, chef/licensee at the Pot Kiln, Frilsham, Berkshire:​

"We make traditional steak and kidney puddings, using real suet, which we serve with Maggs Magnificent Mild, from the West Berkshire Brewery. We include the mild in the recipe. Served chilled, it's very refreshing, and as it has a relatively low ABV, customers can drink more to help counter the richness of the pudding. We serve individual puddings, with an earthenware jug of mild, which is poured at the table into Reidel stemless red wine glasses. It looks great, and encourages other customers to order."

John Keeling, head brewer, Fuller's:​

"Steak and kidney pie is a very traditional dish, so I'd recommend London Pride, a very traditional bitter. I would recommend marinating the meat in the London Pride before cooking the dish. London Pride has distinctive sweet malty, fruity flavours, which enhance the flavour of the meat. If bitter flavours are not to your taste, try something more roasted like Orkney Brewery's Dark Island." John Bexon, head brewer, Greene King:​

"Ruddles County is the perfect accompaniment to steak and kidney pie. The cleansing bitterness will cut through the rich filling and its hoppy taste and aromas will refresh the palate. Its combination of rare and unusual hops and premium barley produces a truly unique flavour - described as burnt toffee and caramel combined with a dry bitterness."

Kamini Dickie, contract product development manager, Brewing Research International:​

"Marston's Pedigree - the beautifully designed 800ml bottle, slightly larger than a wine bottle, not only sits well on a dinner table, but is also ideal for sharing. But, what about the beer itself? Brewed through the Burton Union Systems, the mineral enriched Burton water gives a distinct flavour combined with the fruitiness of Fuggles hops and the bitter, spicy notes from Goldings hops. The hint of sulphurous aroma leading to the hoppy fruity taste is followed with a dry, bitter finish. The beer is full flavoured with a smoothness that complements the traditional steak and kidney pie."

Two more suggestions from Kamini: "Harvey's Sussex Best Bitter is a full, well hopped bitter, with a good malt and hop balance from an independent family brewery. The beer has a dry finish which complements Steak & Kidney pie wonderfully. A rather moreish beer.

"Coniston Bluebird Bitter, a golden coloured single varietal hop beer. Full on citrus fruit aroma from Challenger hops. On taste, the creamy biscuity malt and tart hoppiness is well balanced. It gives a bitter dry finish with a lingering fruitiness."

Next time around, the panel will be looking for the ideal beer to accompany fish and chips. Batter and bitter? Pils and a plaice? Keep reading - and if there's a dish on your menu you'd like the panel to make some beer recommendations for, email your request to chosbbq@gurchoyvpna.pbz​.