Food File - What's in Season in August

PubChef's guide to what's in season in August

Peas

The small, round, green seed of the plant Pisum sativum, peas have been cultivated since ancient times. Good quality frozen peas are fine but are no match for fresh garden peas, which are in their prime during August. Best enjoyed blanched and coated in a little melted butter, they are an ideal accompaniment to fish, veal, lamb and poultry, make excellent soup and provide a key ingredient for rice dishes such as risotto. When buying peas, make sure the pods are smooth and bright green; the peas should be shiny and not too large. Peas are at their most tender just after picking, so cook as soon as possible for maximum enjoyment.

Hare

Available from game butchers, hare is similar to rabbit in texture but not in flavour. Hare has a dark brown, strong, gamey flesh, which is best cooked when young; the legs and saddle making the choicest cuts. Traditional British recipes include jugged hare and game pie or terrine, while in France, hare à la royale is a well-known dish.

Skate

A large, flat, scaleless fish with a pinkish-white, meaty flesh and a fine texture. Only the wings of the skate are used, which contain no bones, but a pliable cartilage that can be easily removed. As the skin of skate is covered with a viscous coating that regenerates for up to 10 hours after death, its freshness can be judged by rubbing it with a cloth and observing whether the coating reappears. The fish should be washed several times to remove the smell of ammonia, which is most marked when it is fresh, and the thick skin should always be removed before cooking. Skate's gelatinous quality makes it excellent for making pâté, stock and terrine, but it can also be served as a gratin, pan-fried or poached and accompanied with noisette butter. The most common skate and the one that boasts the best flavour is the thornback.

Basil

An aromatic plant originating in India, there are many varieties of basil. In Britain, the two most commonly used are sweet basil, used in Mediterranean cooking and widely grown as a pot herb, and holy basil, which is more commonly used in Thai and Asian cuisine. The bright green leaves of sweet basil have a spicy, sweet flavour, which marries well with tomatoes, courgettes and aubergines. The main ingredient of pesto, basil can also be used to flavour sauces, soups, salads and omelettes.